PainfulPleasures Titanium & Niobium Anodizer

Titanium & Niobium Anodizer for all your Jewelry, Dental & Medical Supplies

Safely anodize your body jewelry and medical or dental tools with this PainfulPleasures Titanium and Niobium Anodizer. This listing is for one Titanium and Niobium Anodizer. It comes with a standard AC power cable and another cable with a male RCA input + alligator clips for anodizing. Check out the complete Titanium Anodizing Kit for everything you need to anodize.

Please Note: This titanium & niobium anodizer is a switching power supply with a high frequency transformer. The anodizer is also lightweight and generates a small amount of heat during operation. It features a cooling fan for heat management.

Store this anodizing unit in a dry and well-ventilated place. Remove the power cord if the unit is being stored for extended periods of time.

Specifications:

• Output Voltage: 0–120v
• Output current: 0–3A
• Input Voltage: 115v ± 10% (60Hz), or 230v ± 10% (50Hz)
• Constant current or short-circuit protection
• Fine + coarse adjustments for more color options, and more precision
• Used on titanium and niobium metals
• Used for jewelry, medical, and dental supplies
• Linear power supply model available here; more stable operation + less failure rate

Niobium Anodizing Tips:

Achieving the Opalescent Color in Niobium:

1. Anodize the niobium to green, which for niobium is generally 95–100v
2. Then turn up the machine to 105–110v and tap it till it reaches the desired color. (The reason nothing is exact is because it all differs with the polish and specific part of the niobium the jewelry was cut from.)

Achieving the Black Color in Niobium:

1. Take your niobium jewelry, after being meticulously hand polished, and use a pair of forceps or ring opening pliers and go from the inside and open so it has the ring snug and not moving.
2. Then take your butane torch and fire the niobium until it becomes red hot in all places at least once. (Note: Firing too much will cause the black coat to flake and peel)
3. Once you've fired the piece, let it cool down for 5–8 seconds before dunking it into distilled water (Note: If you dunk it too fast after being red hot, it will flake and peel as well.)
4. After it has been fired and cooled down you will end up with matte black.
5. To achieve shiny black we take it to our polishers and polish only with the last step of hand polishing, a quick shine with a white cotton wheel and our orange sunset compound.(Note: Too much hand polishing will start to take off the black color leaving it spotted silver and black.)